Showing posts with label Tuscany. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tuscany. Show all posts

3/4/18

Florence To Pisa: A Scenic Train Ride Through Tuscany


The Eurail pass can take you anywhere in Italy, from Venice to Palermo and every city in between. It is certainly worth your while to ride the Frecciarossa high-speed trains from one destination to another, checking off cities such as Palermo, Naples and Rome as you go. However, you can have an equally enriching experience by riding the slower rails and digging deep into the landscape of a single region on regional trains. Plus, you don’t need to reserve a seat ahead of time; just hop on and off the train to your heart’s content. The route from Florence to Pisa takes you along breathtaking scenery and charming towns.
No place adapts itself better to this exercise than Tuscany, and Florence is one of several ideal starting points. Plan to spend 3 to 5 days following the route – you’ll want to take your time in each city.

Worthwhile stops from Florence to Pisa

Florence

Florence to Pisa. Sunset in Florence, Italy.
Sunset in Florence, Italy
Most Florentine landmark sits within an easy walk of the central Santa Maria Novella train station. So even if you’ve spent a few days here and want an early start to less well-known destinations, you might consider dropping your bag off by the left-luggage depot next to platform 15 and spend an hour or two taking in the city. Walk around the duomo one last time – making sure to stop for an ice cream at Grom, one of Italy’s best gelato vendors, located just down a sidestreet under the watchful eye of Giotto’s campanile. Or peruse the leather goods sold at the covered market and the storefront shops facing the Medici chapelsThen grab your bags, check the departures chart one last time, and get ready to leave the crowds behind.

Pistoia

Florence to Pisa. Pistoia morning.
Try to visit Pistoia in the morning, while the streets are still empty and serene
I think it’s cities like Pistoia, some five stops on the regional train from Florence, that make Italy such an appealing draw. The city does not rank high on any tourist’s to-do list – in fact, it rarely makes the list at all. Yet Pistoia drips with charm, and I sometimes travel there when I want to disconnect from the crowds and find a window into Tuscan daily life. From the station, walk to the other side of the roundabout and join up with Via xx Settembre. A ten-minute stroll takes you to Via Camillo Benso Cavour at the outer ring of Pistoia’s historic center.
Make your way to Piazza della Sala, the city’s old commercial hub, just off the square that holds Pistoia’s cathedral. Then grab a beer at La Degna Tana. Directly in front of you, a resident fills a bucket with water pumped from a stone fountain. On the other side of the square, a calm covered market charts the distance between the palaces of long-departed nobles. Only the barks of market vendors and the chatter of their customers break the tranquility. Among Tuscany’s many treasures, you will feel like Pistoia belongs only to you.

Montelupo-Capraia

Florence to Pisa. Tuscany hills.
The hills of Tuscany
I came to the industrial hub of Empoli hoping to find something of the Tuscan town life that I had never experienced before. And, well, it took me all of 20 minutes to figure out why no one from Tuscany had ever told me I should. This is where the Eurail Pass worked its magic. Without waiting another minute, and without standing in line at the busy Empoli station, I took one of the many trains headed back to Florence and stepped out at Montelupo-Capraia.
I first walked to Capraia, where a series of footpaths lead past stone facades clinging jealously to the sides of a hill. The views of Montelupo’s fortress on the other side of the Arno caught the corner of my eye as I followed the scent of grilled meat to find a pair of locals gabbing, one at street level and the other from an open window – a classic Tuscan tableau.
At the top of Capraia, I stood still under the base of the 18th-century Santo Stefano church, which stands on a structure first built in the early 12th century, and took in the views at each side. The reward here isn’t a street café and a 90-cent cup of coffee – for that, head across the river to bustling Montelupo, with its cafes and art galleries. No price can be placed, though, on the views of the Tuscan hills stretching to the distance as far as the eye can see. Montelupo-Capraia is a 30-minute train ride from Florence.

Lucca

Florence to Pisa. Amfitheater Lucca.
The amfitheater in Lucca, Italy
Opera composer Giacomo Puccini was born in this small provincial capital, and it’s not hard to recognize the city as a source of his inspiration. Lucca’s historic city center unfolds like a love song. Atop the remarkably well preserved renaissance-era walls runs a steady stream of joggers, tracing an urban perimeter lined by elegant avenues that connect the city gates and a series of churches. Just within the walls, city life nestles around a hive of small piazzas placed at random intervals.
At Piazza Cittadella, Puccini in sculpted form lounges amid brick-and stucco residences, cafes and bistros. You will want to follow his example, but don’t stay too long, because otherwise you’ll miss the crowning moment of Lucca’s architectural symphony – Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, where a chorus of flamboyantly colored buildings hug against the foundations of Lucca’s Roman-era amphitheater. Lucca is around a 1-hour 20 minute train ride from Florence.

Pisa

Florence to Pisa. leaning tower of Pisa.
The leaning tower of Pisa
This coast-adjacent Italian city draws most visitors in Tuscany for one reason: its famous leaning tower. It’s also a well-connected city, and at the far western edge of this itinerary, it only takes around an hour on a direct regional train from Florence. Pisa Centrale train station offers left luggage facilities, so if you want to simply make the 20-minute walk to the Leaning Tower before leaving, you can easily do so.
Meanwhile, the station’s location at the opposite end of town from Piazza dei Miracoli, where the city’s most famous building towers over a field of grass and a handful of other breathtaking landmarks, offers the perfect chance to take in the other side of the city. Set out slow down Corso Italia and trod the cobbles of its warren of side streets, replete with mom-and-pop shops and bearing names, such as Via delle Belle Donne and Vicolo dell’Oro, that are tailor-made for flights of fancy.

Siena: An Enchanting Day Trip From Florence


All roads in Siena lead to Piazza del Campo, the square that has framed the city’s life for hundreds of years. Siena, Italy is easily reached on the regional rails, and it makes an ideal day trip from Florence. The Piazza defines Siena’s image in the world, since it hosts the city’s famous horse race, Il Palio, held every summer under the square’s iconic bell tower. Even when the horses are in their stables, though, Piazza del Campo is an everyday stage for the Senesi, an eccentric but cosmopolitan bunch who often define their city as being everything that Florence is not.

Scenic train route from Florence to Siena

The adventure begins the second the train pulls away from Florence’s central Santa Maria Novella station. The city soon gives way to hills covered in terraced vineyards overseen by stunning Tuscan villas. You’ll need to resist the urge to step off the train when it stops at Montelupo-Capraia, small cities made rich centuries ago by the manufacture of ceramics.
Despite the trackside temptations, you have made it to Siena and you find yourself ambling down Via Banchi di Sopra. Stained-glass windows enclosed in marble arches look down at you from the medieval buildings. At ground level, storefronts on Banchi di Sopra offer brands such as Sisley, Swatch and L’Occitane en Provence.
Siena Cathedral, Italy

Top 3 things to do in Siena

San Domenico, Siena
San Domenico, Siena
Siena isn’t only a historical gem. It’s also a college town, meaning there is a good mix of things to do in the city.
  1. The Duomo
    First, head to Grom for a tasty gelato and then waste no time finding the Duomo, one of Tuscany’s most spectacular architectural sights. You could spend hours staring at the exterior, clad in alternating layers of black and white marble and vaunting a façade with enough stone gargoyles, horses and saints to keep an art history student occupied for a semester or two. The 12 Euro all-inclusive ticket is also worth considering, though, because it is the interior of the church that truly moves.
  2. Take a stroll
    The best way to discover Siena is simply to walk. The city’s medieval core is far smaller than that of Florence, its streets narrower and more mysterious. Discover monumental buildings such as Palazzo Salimbeni and check out the works of art at the Pinacoteca Nazionale. Lounge at L’Incontro, on Via Giovanni Dupre, where for a few euros you can snack on a great panini and spend hours chatting with friends new and old. (The locale has long been a favorite among the many students visiting from abroad.)
  3. The piazza
    Before the shadows get too long, make a beeline for Piazza del Campo. Take your friends and a bottle of store-bought wine, find a wide-open spot on the sun-warmed bricks under the tower and ponder what you would have missed had you stayed back in the crowded streets of Florence.
Siena, Italy
No one will blame you if you decide to make Siena more than just a day trip.
Discovering Siena for yourself is easy. Regional Trenitalia trains from Florence to Siena run between one and three times per hour on weekdays after 7 a.m. and take about 90 minutes to arrive – 15 minutes more if your train switches in Empoli. Only regional trains service the route, so no reservation is required. 

2/5/18

Top 10 Wine Regions In Europe By Train


There are hundreds of wine regions in Europe, many of which are accessible by train. Defining the top 10 wine regions in Europe is therefore quite a challenge.


Wine regions in Europe: A top 10

  1.  Porto and the Douro Valley, Portugal
    Wine regions in Europe. Vineyards in the Douro Valley, Portugal
    Fortified wines around the world have mistakenly become known as “Port”. Because, like with Champagne, there’s only one place to get the real deal. The grapes used to produce these typically sweet red wines, are cultivated along northern Portugal’s Douro River. Travel on the railway line along the Douro, from Porto to Pocinho, for a spectacular and scenic journey through the wine country. The city of Porto is the place where much of the tipple is fermented. Take a direct train to São Bento station in the city center and head over to Gaia. Here you’ll find the cellars that store and age Port. You can get tours and tastings in most of these cellars!
  2. Bordeaux, France
    Wine regions in Europe. Bordeaux, France
    Bordeaux, in the southwest of France, is one of the largest wine regions in Europe. Bordelais have been fermenting grapes into elegant blends since the eighth century. To get a feel for the region, head to the town of Saint-Émilion. This town is easily accessible by regional rail from Bordeaux city and offers historical attractions beyond vineyard tours and wine tastings.
  3. Piedmont, Italy
    Wine regions in Europe. Piedmont, Italy
    Piedmont, called Piemonte in Italian, is a wine-growing region in the northwest of the country. The big boys Barolo and Barbaresco largely dominate this region. Nebbiolo grapes are king here. You’ll find wines that are characterized by deep tannins and great longevity. Other wines you may want to try or buy in Piedmont are Barbera d’Asti, Barbera del Monferrato and Asti Spumante. Asti and Alba are the two main cities in this notable wine region. You can easily reach them by regional train (which require no fee or reservation) from Turin.
  4. Champagne, France
    Wine regions in Europe. Wine cellar in Champagne, France
    Champagne is one of the most famous wine regions in Europe. This region is easily accessible by rail on a day trip from Paris. You could also spend the night here and do some tastings and tours in Reims. Some wineries let you venture into wine cellars that were dug below the city centuries ago. For a small-town Champagne experience, get off the train early at Épernay. You will quickly see why this city is the historic heart of champagne production! Take the high-speed TGV train from Paris to Reims, and you’ll be drinking champagne within the hour. Alternatively, you can travel by regional train, which will take about 2 hours and allows you to get off wherever you like.
  5. Mosel, Germany
    Wine regions in Europe. Mosel river, Germany
    Germany ranks fifth in wine regions in Europe and the country has an efficient rail network to get you there. Head to Mosel to taste some outstanding German wine. While most people associate Germany with beer, wine production here has generated some highly sought-after bottles. The riverside train ride between Cochem and Koblenz is quite scenic. Both Cochem and Trier make excellent bases for exploring the Mosel wine region.
  6. La Rioja, Spain
    Wine regions in Europe. Rioja, Spain
    La Rioja is a small region in northern Spain that has grown famous due to Tempranillo, Spain’s noble grape. The strong and full-bodied wines gain their characters from the long time they spend aging in oak barrels. The best way to sample La Rioja wines is on a night-long tapas and wine crawl through the regional capital of Logroño. Visit La Rioja by long-distance train, but remember that nearly all of them , including AVE and Alvia, require a reservation. Keep an eye out for the reservation-free Intercity trains when planning your trip.
  7. Tokaj-Hegyalja, Hungary
    Wine regions in Europe. Tokaj, Hunagry
    Hungary is an underappreciated wine country, but well-developed with more than a thousand years of wine making experience. There are 22 wine regions in the country. Most noteworthy is the wine region of Tokaj-Hegyalja, which is also a World Heritage Site. An excellent place to start your exploration here is in the foothills of the Zemplén Mountains, in Tokaj. This town is famous for its full-bodied sweet dessert wine, Tokaji Aszú. If you want to sip this wine in the place it’s made, you can get take a train from Budapest to Tokaj in 4 hours.
  8. Tuscany, Italy
    Wine regions in Europe. Wine shop in Florence, Italy
    Italy’s Tuscany comprises of individual wine regions. While the rail network here doesn’t quite reach every little wine village between Florence and Siena, it does get you efficiently to either city. You’ll find that both cities are extraordinary destinations in their own right, and a great place to sample the local wines.  
  9. Moravia, Czech Republic
    Wine regions in Europe. Wine cellar in Moravia, Czech Republic
    Like Germany, the Czech Republic is mostly famous for its beers. Yet in Moravia, on the country’s east side, wine is clearly favored. So if you’re a wine lover, you’lll want to make a beeline for southern Moravia. Znojmo is a good town to get oriented to Moravia’s wine, culture, and history. You can get there by train from Prague in 5 hours and from Brno in 2,5 hours.
  10. Rhône Valley, France
    Wine regions in Europe. Vineyards in the Rhone Valley, France
    A personal favorite of mine, the Rhône Valley of France, is a wine region that’s highly underrated. Here you will find some deep, dark wines dominated by Syrah. Follow the Rhône to the riverside town of Tain-l’Hermitage, surrounded by hillside vineyards. The town has an abundance of places for you to sip some tasty northern Rhône wines. Take the scenic French regional train to enjoy views of vineyards and wineries from your window, and stop at the region’s wine-producing towns.

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